Cinque Terre: Italian on Italian on Italian

I have always been curious as to where locals of a particular country go on vacation.  Is there a time of the year that is most popular?  Do they go abroad or stay domestic?  I have been pleasantly surprised during this trip that many western Europeans choose to stay domestic for their vacations, something that isn't consistent for other countries around the world.  I'm looking at you Australia.  

In Italy, that place is Cinque Terre.  Unless you have traveled extensively, like to skim thru Rick Steves books in your spare time, or are substantially cooler than I, you have likely not heard of this place. However, once you arrive you understand why this place is such a gem.  And during each August you witness how it becomes Italy on top of Italy with a topping of Italy.  Yes, all of August. Yes, we are doing something wrong back home with this two weeks of vacation crap.  

So grab your fedora, ladies ditch your top, pour yourself a spritz and enjoy the trip thru "The Five Lands".

Monterosso.  Our home (and one of the five towns) during our stay.

What's that?  What do you do in Cinque Terre?  Great question, I'd be happy to tell you.  

You start by staying a Manuel's Guesthouse.  It's in Monterosso at the top of town, exactly 134 steps up to their place.  I know, a real shocker to all that I counted.  Owned by Manuel, who of course is an artist who spends his afternoon painting in the square below, run by his brother Giovanni and nephew Lorenzo.  They have a massive bar consisting of three options: red wine, white wine or beer.  All on tap.  Jamie and I agreed that Giovanni is one of our favorite people yet.  With the purchase of a 3 euro wine on tap this jovial, 70 something Italian proceeds to prepare an entire plate of fresh fruit, bread and olive oil.  Interested in some prosciutto?  Yep, he'll include an entire plate as well.  I had mentioned to him during check in that Jamie's birthday was coming up, in hopes that he would wish her best wishes on that morning, he proceeded to chill and deliver a bottle of Prosecco for us to enjoy that evening.  Certainly not fancy but one of our best stays yet.  

Here's the shot from their terrace.  

Best 3 euro wine in town.

(You can all thank the weird servers in Turkey for the fact that we can't get a picture uploaded.  Stupid ISIS)

(Update: We loaded picture, thanks Tunnelbear VPN.  Suck it ISIS)

Next on your agenda is to make the picturesque hike between the five towns. For most, this would not cause any trepidation but as many of you know we had a slightly uncomfortable hiking experience a few weeks ago.  As has been the consistent theme throughout our trip, we threw caution to the wind and set off on the trail.  

Later Monterosso

Nice head tilt weirdo.

The hike is spectacular.  Yes, there are a few spots that set off Jamie's vertigo but nothing even remotely close to the insanity of Switzerland. The trail for us started in Monterosso, where you have an immediate 30 minute climb straight-up a seemingly endless set of mountain steps.  As we were walking south the Ligurian Sea was our constant landmark to our right, one that seemed to stretch out forever into the distance.  It feels very different from anywhere I have been.  I have been to beaches, I have been to the mountains but none mashes up the two in the same Girl Talk way as Cinque Terre. We finished the hike in Corniglia as the last portion was closed (yes, we have learned our lesson).  If you come the hike is an absolute must.  Plus, it will help you feel better when you eat your weight in pasta and risotto later that night.  

  

View from the trail as you enter Vernazza.  

 The next item on your agenda is to vacation the Italian way and hit the beach.  Don't worry about getting up early and putting books and towels down to claim your spot as the Italian's aren't interested in moving too much until about noon.  The beach doesn't really hit its stride until about 3pm.  The people watching as you can imagine is amazing, it seems there has been a collective agreement to conserve the use of clothing for both genders while on the beach. Think of the most ridiculous beach outfit you could wear and yep, I'm sure you'd see it.  As long as it requires little to no clothes.

The last item on the agenda may be the most important.  Eat and drink.  Seafood is king in Cinque Terre and our favorite was the seafood risotto.  Thanks to a recommendation from our Australian friends at Manuel's house we had possibly our best meal yet, the seafood risotto was insane.  So much so that we went back the following night (for Jamie's Birthday) for the exact same meal.  We also met Kiko.  Ahhh, Kiko.  Now one of Jamie's proud facebook friends, Kiko's family owns the restaurant and was our waiter for both meals.  He was as much a reason as to why we loved the restaurant as the food.  He was about our age (yes Julie, about 54), so full of life and happiness.  After our meal he brought over some after dinner drinks, we drank together and shut the restaurant down.  We talked about family, dogs, dog training, people of the world and of course food.  A great conversation, a great meal and a great night.  We'll be back again some day for that seafood risotto.

In the case of Cinque Terre the Italian's have gotten it correct, there is no need to leave the country when looking for one of the coolest vacation spots in the world.  Well worth the terrain and the steps, all 134 of them.

Kevin, foosball rematch? Of course the table is in the middle of Vernazza's harbor, duh.

Fun Fact: The only way to reach Cinque Terre is by train.  More fun fact, if you're a tourist they assume you have a ticket.  Ryan/Jamie 1, Cinque Terre 0