My loves

I love Rome.

In 2003 I studied abroad in Rome for a quarter through the University of Washington's CHID (comparative history of ideas) program. We learned about the history, philosophy and architecture of this great city while actually wandering its streets. I fell head over heels in love with everything about the city.

The only thing interesting about this picture is that I am standing in front of the door to my old apartment building in Campo Di Fiori

In 2010 I was fortunate enough to visit Rome again with my family. I was a bit apprehensive as I worried my initial love might actually be lust and Rome would not shine as bright. It shone brighter.

In 2014 I got to share my favorite city with my favorite person and show him the place I love while watching him discover it for the first time. Despite a sizable amount of closures and construction on many of the famous sites (it was almost comical) I believe my two loves got on very well. Rome (and Ryan) are quite extraordinary. Let me explain why I love Rome (we all know why I love Ryan).

Typically, the Trevi Fountain is a sight to be seen. It was under construction, so in order to avoid confusion they put up a sign...

...don't worry, they also saved a tiny pool of fountain water and plopped it in front of a  sad representation of the center statue (represents ocean) so we can all still make a wish (and we did, see below)

Like the majority of big cities with a remarkable reputation for food and culture, Romans are very proud to be Roman. They should be, their city is great. The difference, however, between a prideful Roman and lets say a prideful New Yorker...you know, just as an example...is that Romans want to share with you. They are kind, welcoming and willing to overlook your slow tourist pace and tendency to gawk. They get it, they do it too.

Between the trams, mopeds, cars, taxis, pulse of people, and mobs of tourists, the city is in constant motion. It feels alive. It breathes. However, because there are no skyscrapers it never seems to completely overwhelm. It is not pressing down on you or enveloping you in is massiveness. Instead, it gently swarms around you and even stops for you at each pedestrian cross walk. While massive, Rome has manners. It is also easy to escape the big city feel and find a small, quiet cobblestone street or neighborhood.

Rome is bursting with public spaces and its people love to congregate in them to share a meal, a glass of wine, an apertif or an espresso. We witnessed tourists among locals filling and spilling into the larger spaces, such as Piazza Navona and Campo Di Fiori. However, you stumble across a packed piazza (large, medium, and small in size) after about every 3rd turn you take. The city is almost begging you to stop, take a breath and let it all soak in. My favorite random gathering was a group of people crowded around a teeny tiny table sharing a bottle of wine and some delicious looking pastries. Their joy and laughter was palpable.

People congregating on the Spanish Steps

Pizza. I rarely make gluten exceptions, but I had been dreaming of Roman style pizza since we decided to book this trip. It's crispy, thin crust is one of a kind. I am boring and love the classic margherita, however you can basically put anything your heart desires atop the delicious crust. Though, we were told by a Roman who lived in the US for awhile that Dominos thin crust gives Roman pizza a run for its money.

Possibly the most wonderful thing of all is the juxtaposition between the ancient and the modern. It is the epicenter of so many historical paths. You are walking amongst ruins dating back to 700 or 600 BC (depending on who you ask), you can see how it morphed from monarchy to republic to immense empire. You can sit right next to Julius Caesars burial place while looking directly at the ruins of a church that marked the first onset of Christianity. You see its decline and how it rose again with our great renaissance artists and finally became the capital of a united Italy. It is truly remarkable that Rome withstood so much and has always maintained its relevance. While the archeological remains (Coliseum, Forum, Palatine Hill et al) are always being excavated, it isn't necessarily their appearance that takes your breath away, rather the fact that you are literally walking through an ancient history book. The feeling is totally indescribable.

The Coliseum is super impressive, we promptly watched Gladiator after our visit, not caring that it was actually filmed in Malta

This is Julius Caesar's burial site, he was cremated so it isn't actually a grave

So, like thousands of other visitors, I will always toss a coin in the Trevi fountain to ensure good fortune and a fast return to the Eternal City. Absence really does make the heart grow fonder.

Rome, I am coming back for you!!

Don't forget about me!

Fun Fact: After thousands of years of pedestrian traffic, the stairs leading down to the Coliseum are quite slick. Information that would have been useful to Ryan before he turned said stairs into his personal slip and slide.